You searched for sunscreen amount - KindofStephen https://www.kindofstephen.com Hello! I'm a skincare and cosmetic formulator. Here's my thoughts on skin care and cosmetic research. Mon, 28 Mar 2022 14:22:40 +0000 en-CA hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.9.3 https://i0.wp.com/www.kindofstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/cropped-profile-2.jpg?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 You searched for sunscreen amount - KindofStephen https://www.kindofstephen.com 32 32 114122149 Making sense of sunscreen protection percents. Where does “SPF 30 absorbs 97% of the UV” come from? https://www.kindofstephen.com/sunscreen_percents/ Mon, 30 Aug 2021 13:03:44 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3613 You may have heard that: “SPF 30 absorbs 97% of the UV” or “SPF 50 absorbs 98% of the UV”. These numbers are from a math model and it’s quite simple! The math model is: 1 – (1 ÷ SPF) 1 divided by the sunscreen’s SPF, subtracted from 1. With an SPF 30: 1 – […]

"Making sense of sunscreen protection percents. Where does “SPF 30 absorbs 97% of the UV” come from?" on KindofStephen.

]]> You may have heard that: “SPF 30 absorbs 97% of the UV” or “SPF 50 absorbs 98% of the UV”. These numbers are from a math model and it’s quite simple!

The math model is:

1 – (1 ÷ SPF)

1 divided by the sunscreen’s SPF, subtracted from 1.

With an SPF 30:

1 – (1 ÷ 30) = 1 – (1/30 or 0.0333…) = 1 – 0.0333… = 0.9666…

The ellipses (…) means repeating, the 666 in the decimal number 0.9666 repeats forever.

For simplicity, we can round up 0.9666… to 0.97. We can then convert a decimal number to a percent by multiplying it by 100.

0.97 x 100 = 97%

What’s the basis of this math model? The SPF of our sunscreens are tested experimentally on real people. SPF is the ratio between the amount of UV the participants’ skin can be exposed to before sunburn with and without the sunscreen.

SPF can be affected by things that aren’t absorbing or reflecting UV – like antioxidants, anti-inflammatories, protection boosters, and an individual’s skin. We also know that not every wavelength of UV causes sunburn equally. The math model only accounts for the amount of UV the sunscreen passes through to the skin and the amount of UV it doesn’t.

That’s why these percentage protection numbers are a model, they’re a simplified representation. But models can be useful in understanding complicated things.

So let’s break down this model

1 – (1 ÷ SPF)

1 ÷ SPF represents the fraction of UV that the sunscreen lets through.

So in the model, an SPF 25 exposes the skin to 1 ÷ 25 or 1/25 or 0.04

To convert a decimal number into a percent we multiply by 100
0.04 x 100 gives us 4%.

If we want to know the fraction of UV that the sunscreen prevents from reaching the skin in this model, we subtract it from the total, which is 100%. 100% can be written as 1/1 or 1 or 25/25.

1 – (1 ÷ SPF)

With an SPF 25, we can write 1 as 25/25

1 – (1 ÷ 25) = 1 – (1/25) = 25/25 – (1/25) = 24/25 or 0.96

To convert a decimal number into a percent we multiply 0.96 by 100, which gives us 96%.

The model doesn’t account for how, or really what form of UV. Just the UV that causes sunburn – which SPF is a ratio of, and what is being allowed through and not let through.

1 ÷ SPF gives us the fraction of UV the sunscreen lets through.

1 – (1 ÷ SPF) gives us the fraction of UV that the sunscreen doesn’t let through.

The fraction of UV that is being let through and not being let through add up to all of the UV, 1 or 100%.

On the previous slides, we showed that an SPF 25 in the model lets through 4% and doesn’t let through 96% of the UV.

4% and 96% add up to 100%.

Let’s run through this for an SPF 60. Working it out with your calculator can make it easier to understand!

1 ÷ SPF gives us the fraction of UV the sunscreen lets through.

1 – (1 ÷ SPF) gives us the fraction of UV that the sunscreen doesn’t let through.

Since the SPF is 60, we can put that in

1 ÷ SPF gives us the fraction of UV the sunscreen lets through. We can write 1 ÷ 60

1 – (1 ÷ SPF) gives us the fraction of UV that the sunscreen doesn’t let through.

We can write 1 – (1 ÷ 60)

What fraction or percent of the UV does this model show an SPF 60 letting through and not letting through?

So the amount of UV that an SPF 60 lets through in this model is:

1 ÷ SPF, since SPF is 60, we write 1 ÷ 60

1 ÷ 60 can be written as 1/60. Enter that into a calculator and you get the decimal number, which is 0.01666… for simplicity, we can round that up to 0.0167. We multiply that by 100 to get a percent, 1.67%

The amount of UV that the SPF doesn’t let through is 1 – (1 ÷ SPF). We know 1 ÷ SPF is 1.67%, so 100% minus 1.67% gives us 98.33%

1 – (1 ÷ SPF) = 1 – (1/60) = 60/60 – (1/60) = 59/60 = 0.98333… = 98.333% rounded to 98.33%

We can check our work by seeing that 1.67% and 98.33% add up to 100%.

Sometimes the percentages don’t add up to exactly 100% – that’s usually because of how the decimal numbers were rounded.

The math here might look complicated, but it is just fractions.

If you know a quarter is 1/4 and can be written as 0.25 or 25%

That 4 quarters is equal to 1 and can be written as 4/4 or 100%

Then you can do this!

"Making sense of sunscreen protection percents. Where does “SPF 30 absorbs 97% of the UV” come from?" on KindofStephen.

]]> 3613 Sunscreen dosing. Teaspoons, shotglasses, and fingers…are we using too much? https://www.kindofstephen.com/sunscreen_dosing/ Mon, 09 Aug 2021 13:07:19 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3598 Sunscreens and moisturizers with SPF are tested at a standardized density. That density is 2 milligrams of sunscreen per square centimeter of skin. If we want protection closer to what’s on the label, we should be using sunscreen or moisturizers with SPF at the density they’re tested at too. Most of us don’t know the […]

"Sunscreen dosing. Teaspoons, shotglasses, and fingers…are we using too much?" on KindofStephen.

]]> Sunscreens and moisturizers with SPF are tested at a standardized density. That density is 2 milligrams of sunscreen per square centimeter of skin. If we want protection closer to what’s on the label, we should be using sunscreen or moisturizers with SPF at the density they’re tested at too.

Most of us don’t know the surface area of our skin and most of us don’t know the density of our sunscreens either. This has led to techniques and recommendations, like using 2 or 3 finger lengths of sunscreen, using 1/4 teaspoon of sunscreen, or applying our sunscreen twice. These techniques are all meant to encourage a more generous application of sunscreen, because when unprompted people tend to not apply enough.

With sunscreen, I think it is better to err on the side of applying too much rather than not enough. A higher density and thicker film of sunscreen generally means higher protection. It also makes sense to use more, because some of the sunscreen we apply will remain on our fingers, palms, or tools.

In some cases, I think these techniques might be leading people to use much more sunscreen than they might need. A sunscreen that might have been acceptable at a lower density might leave a strong cast, be too greasy, or pill (when a formula adheres to itself and rubs off the skin). This is especially relevant for people with deeper skin tones evaluating sunscreens for cast.

I’ve made a rough estimate of the surface area of my face, as well as the density (grams per millilitre) of two different sunscreens (IGTV: ‘How much sunscreen do you need?’). One is a cream and the other is a free-flowing milky texture. For both sunscreens, I need about 0.8 millilitres (mL) of sunscreen to get about the 2 milligrams of sunscreen per square centimeter of skin for my face. If I used a 1/4 teaspoon (1.23 mL), I’d be dispensing about half more than I need to protect my face.

With the cream sunscreen, applying 3 finger lengths of sunscreen dispensed about 3 mL of sunscreen. That’s almost 4 times more sunscreen than I might need. With the milk sunscreen, applying 3 finger lengths of sunscreen dispensed about 1.5 mL of sunscreen. That’s about 2 times more sunscreen than I might need. There’s also going to be differences in the thickness of our ‘lines’. That depends on things like how hard we squeeze, how slow we dispense, and the packaging.

If I apply the milky sunscreen with my palms and fingers the amount that ends up on my face might be close to the density I need. With 3 fingerlengths of the cream sunscreen, the finish is greasy and leaves a strong cast. The sunscreen is unusable for me with this much. But If I apply around 0.8 mL of the cream sunscreen, the finish is much nicer and I don’t notice a cast.

There’s no right or wrong method, they’re all just recommendations to encourage “proper” sunscreen use. Measuring your skin’s surface area, sunscreen density, and then each dose is going to be impractical for most people. But we might think about taking another look at sunscreens that may have been overused and left an unusable finish. They might not have at a density closer to the one it was tested at.

A photo showing 3 fingerlengths of a liquid, runny and milk appearing sunscreen. A photo showing those 3 fingerlengths of the milk appearing sunscreen collected in a syringe. It amounts to about 1.5 mL of sunscreen.

A photo showing 3 fingerlengths of a cream sunscreen. A photo showing those 3 fingerlengths of the cream sunscreen collected in a syringe. It amounts to about 3 mL of sunscreen.

One of the ways we can encourage use of sunscreen is modeling realistic use. Many people can’t stand wearing heavier coats of sunscreen, and that’s OK. Some sun protection is better that none.

On the opposite end, brands need to take responsibility for their marketing, and show actual and proper use – especially since they’re the ones testing it at the right density. A smidge might look nice in an advertisment, but we all know it’s not enough and misleading. In the US, sunscreens are drugs not cosmetics – brands need to respect that and stop playing around.

Cheers to @FiddySnails for popularizing the 2 and 3 finger methods. They work for her because her 3 finger-lengths are not as chonky as mine. As well, when using 3 finger-lengths she uses a cushion puff to apply – which is absorbing some of the sunscreen.

If they made 1/6th teaspoons, I’d be golden. You don’t need to overthink this like I did! Our first application of sunscreen doesn’t need to be “perfect” if we reapply throughout a very UV-exposed day. All these techniques, besides precise measurements, are just estimates or rules of thumb – so some common sense and adjustments are sometimes needed!

"Sunscreen dosing. Teaspoons, shotglasses, and fingers…are we using too much?" on KindofStephen.

]]> 3598 Skincare Optimizing and Anxiety: Unrealistic expectations of perfection from imperfect information. https://www.kindofstephen.com/skincare_optimizing/ Mon, 12 Jul 2021 16:48:04 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3594 I often get emails like the following: “I use X sunscreen, after 15 minutes, I use a foundation. The ingredients of X sunscreen are Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL) 7%, Bemotrizinol 5%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 5%, Avobenzone 3%, Homosalate 2%, Ensulizole 0.5% The makeup contains Octinoxate 6.0%, Titanium Dioxide 3.8%, Zinc Oxide 3.0%. Will this destabilize […]

"Skincare Optimizing and Anxiety: Unrealistic expectations of perfection from imperfect information." on KindofStephen.

]]> I often get emails like the following:

“I use X sunscreen, after 15 minutes, I use a foundation.

The ingredients of X sunscreen are Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL) 7%, Bemotrizinol 5%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 5%, Avobenzone 3%, Homosalate 2%, Ensulizole 0.5%

The makeup contains Octinoxate 6.0%, Titanium Dioxide 3.8%, Zinc Oxide 3.0%.

Will this destabilize the avobenzone or affect the SPF protection?”

Usually, my response is that it’s impossible to know just based on the ingredients alone.

We need to be able to measure the changes we’re interested in. In this case with an SPF test performed on humans and a photostability test.

This is the only answer that isn’t completely hypothetical.

That’s how I respond, and almost every time there is a follow up question:

“If I used this sunscreen without avobenzone, would that be better? Should I change the makeup I am using? Should I wait longer between applications? Would that be better?”

I think this anxiety is partly due to a growing amount of science-washing in the beauty community.

People, brands, and retailers sometimes describe skincare down to an unrealistic level of precision and accuracy. Using scientific terminology, biochemistry, and statistics in a way that almost becomes untruthful or irrelevant.

But what’s most important is the removal of context. Experiments often simplify reality to their most relevant parts, and their results shouldn’t necessarily be extrapolated.

Scientific literacy isn’t just about recognizing and understanding equations, keywords, or jargon.

It’s also the ability to recognize what is being discussed and what isn’t, how it fits into the larger context, and when to apply or not apply new information.

This is the same with medical literacy. Yes, we have access to more medical information than ever before, but we don’t necessarily have the experience, or critical skills to diagnose or treat ourselves.

To people who have anxiety about whether they’re getting the “most” out of their skincare products, be they sunscreen or otherwise, I think these two thoughts are important to keep in mind…

It is impossible to “optimize” or “maximize” something if you can’t measure it.

Some is better than none.

"Skincare Optimizing and Anxiety: Unrealistic expectations of perfection from imperfect information." on KindofStephen.

]]> 3594 Understanding Sun Protection Labels https://www.kindofstephen.com/sunlabels/ Wed, 09 Jun 2021 14:32:22 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3567 SPF, PA, PPD, UVA, Stars…What does it all mean? Sun Protection Factor (SPF) The SPF number is a ratio of how much UV exposure your skin can be exposed to with the sunscreen on compared to without. The SPF test uses erythema or sunburn as a marker, which is mostly caused by UVB. Hypothetically, an […]

"Understanding Sun Protection Labels" on KindofStephen.

]]> SPF, PA, PPD, UVA, Stars…What does it all mean?

Sun Protection Factor (SPF)

The SPF number is a ratio of how much UV exposure your skin can be exposed to with the sunscreen on compared to without. The SPF test uses erythema or sunburn as a marker, which is mostly caused by UVB.

Hypothetically, an SPF 30 would mean you can be exposed to 30 times more sunburn causing UV compared to without the sunscreen on.

SPF 30 does not necessarily mean that you can stay out 30 times longer in the sun before sunburn. That is because the amount of UV coming from the sun is not always the same.

Broad Spectrum

Broad spectrum is a statement on how a sunscreen absorbs different wavelengths of UV light.

While the label requirements differ between regions, they all must meet a minimum critical wavelength of 370 nanometers.

That means when measured, at least 90% of the UV light the sunscreen absorbs is below the wavelength of 370 nanometers.

Broad spectrum is a signal that the sunscreen offers better UVA protection than a comparable sunscreen without the label.

UVA Circle

The UVA Circle symbol means that the sunscreen’s UVA protection is at least a third of the SPF.

If a sunscreen with the UVA Circle symbol has an SPF 30, you can expect a UVA 10 or higher.

The UVA Circle symbol does not tell you the exact UVA protection, just the minimum you might expect.

UVA Protection Factor

The UVA number (sometimes UVAPF number) is a description of how protective a sunscreen is against UVA radiation.

The UVA number is a ratio, like SPF. A UVA 30 means hypothetically you can be exposed to about 30 times more UVA with proper application of the sunscreen than without.

The UVA number can be determined in vitro (non-human testing) by measuring and comparing the amount of UVA light that passes through the sunscreen on textured plastic.

The UVA number can also be determined in vivo (human testing) with persistent pigment darkening or PPD.

Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD)

The PPD number is a ratio of how much UV the skin can be exposed to before developing a long-lasting tan with the sunscreen on compared to without. Long lasting tans are mostly caused by UVA.

PPD is tested for on people with Fitzpatrick Skin Types 2 to 4 and mostly measures the effects of UVA.

Hypothetically, a PPD 10 would mean you could be exposed to 10 times the UVA with the sunscreen on, compared to without.

PPD results are sometimes labelled as UVA or UVAP. To find out, contact a brand’s customer service and ask which method they used to determine their UVA or UVAPF number.

PA

The PA system ranges from + to ++++ and is based on values from PPD. It was developed in Japan and used in countries like South Korea.

PA+ = PPD 2 to 4
PA++ = PPD 4 to 8
PA+++ = PPD 8 to 16
PA++++ = PPD 16 or greater

The PA system runs into issues when comparing sunscreens with higher PPD numbers. For example, a PPD 20 and PPD 25 sunscreen would both be labelled as PA++++.

Boots Star Rating

The Boots Star Rating is a UVA rating system used by the British retailer Boots.

It describes the ratio of the UVA to UVB absorption of a sunscreen and is tested in vitro (not on people.

The test compares the ratio before and after UV exposure, which accounts for the sunscreen’s photostability.

PRE 0.6 to 0.79PRE 0.8 to 0.89PRE 0.9 and over
POST 0.57 to 0.75* * ** * ** * *
POST 0.76 to 0.85* * ** * * ** * * *
POST 0.86 and over* * ** * * ** * * * *

Getting what’s on the label

Most people don’t apply enough sunscreen when unprompted. To get close to the protection label on the sunscreen, the recommended amount is 2 milligrams per square centimeter of skin (2 mg / cm2).

There’s many different techniques to increase the amount of sunscreen you use. The one I prefer and do most often is to apply it twice, with an aim to reapply at least once during an outdoor day.

We don’t need to stress out too much about the exact amount we’re applying…more is generally better and reapplication can make up for a first application.

The best sunscreen is the one you enjoy using consistently, often, and liberally.

"Understanding Sun Protection Labels" on KindofStephen.

]]> 3567 #BeautyRecap: June 25th, 2019 https://www.kindofstephen.com/beautyrecap-june-25th-2019/ Tue, 25 Jun 2019 12:55:05 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3405 Products and Reviews Mary J. Blige on her new MAC lipstick and wearing less makeup via Popsugar.com Mary J. Blige just released a lipstick with MAC, and it’s your new perfect nude via Allure.com Charlotte Tilbury names new lipsticks after JK Rowling, Jennifer Aniston and Amal Clooney via Independent.co.uk What Charlotte Tilbury’s J.K. Rowling-inspired lipstick […]

"#BeautyRecap: June 25th, 2019" on KindofStephen.

]]> Products and Reviews

Mary J. Blige on her new MAC lipstick and wearing less makeup via Popsugar.com

Mary J. Blige just released a lipstick with MAC, and it’s your new perfect nude via Allure.com

Charlotte Tilbury names new lipsticks after JK Rowling, Jennifer Aniston and Amal Clooney via Independent.co.uk

What Charlotte Tilbury’s J.K. Rowling-inspired lipstick looks like on 3 skin tones via Popsugar.com

Huda Kattan designed a lipstick shade exclusively for Allure via Allure.com

Would you buy Mink? A 3d make-up printer via HK.AsiaTatler.com

3D printing your own makeup could be the future of beauty, thanks to mink via Bustle.com

The Mink, The world’s first-ever 3D portable makeup printer, is officially available for pre-order via Allure.com

Former Google execs’ startup is using an AI-based app CureSkin to solve your skin care problems via YourStory.com

Minnie Dlamini-Jones launches skincare range via IOL.co.za

Miranda Kerr is paving the way for the clean beauty movement with Kora Organics via Forbes.com

Makeup refills from the brands you already know and love via Euronews.com

“We tested out natural beauty brand Pink Organic’s makeup and skincare products” via HypeBae.com

Skin-care brand Murad launches pop-up to cement its position in wellness via Glossy.co

SK-II Is back with new “Pitera Masterclass” via Finance.Yahoo.com

KGLO is a affordable new korean beauty brand launched at Boots via Glamourmagazine.co.uk

My Skin Track UV review: Smart concept but tiny wearable has its flaws via Irishtimes.com

Augustinus Bader on how his $265 USD face cream combines science and skincare via Hypebae.com

Walgreens helps americans save their skin this summer with skin cancer education via FLTimes.com

La Mer Launches a giant jar of Crème de la Mer in Sydney via Grazia.com.au

Curology’s customized skincare line helped me with my trust issues via HypeBae.com

“I tried Artis’ futuristic cleansing silks to see if they lived up to the hype” via GlamourMagazine.co.uk

What is beauty vinegar? This versatile ingredient could revolutionise your skincare routine via Bustle.com

La Prairie’s Exhibition at Art Basel is a Feast for the Eyes via SurfaceMag.com

Using artificial intelligence to combat acne via Beta.Canada.com

Lululemon just launched a selfcare beauty line—here’s my honest review via Elle.com

A review of the ohii Get Fresh Toner Pads via Popsugar.com

Kim Kardashian applies new KKW Body Makeup To her grandmother’s arms to prove how well it works via Allure.com

Lululemon ju’st dropped a line of beauty products via Allure.com

Tata Harper is adding CBD to Its Revitalizing Body Oil via Allure.com

NYX launched 4 new cannabis-infused products, and they’re all under $15 via Allure.com

Do you really need a body serum? We the Saint Jane Luxury Body Serum via Popsugar.com

Wet n Wild just launched a Pac-Man makeup collection at Ulta via Allure.com

Codex Beauty launches flagship product line “Bia” via Finance.Yahoo.com

“We tried Lululemon’s brand new skin care and beauty line—here’s the verdict” via HelloGiggles.com

“I tried Selfcare, Lululemon’s first-ever line of beauty products — here’s my honest review” via Allure.com

6 women of color and skincare enthusiasts reveal their go-to sunscreen picks via Abcnews.Go.com

Cosme announces The Best Cosmetics Awards 2019, Mid-Year New Products via US.Cosme.net

16 best-selling beauty products to pick up on your next drugstore run via Refinery29.com

This is the best-selling lipstick at department stores in 2019 via Marieclaire.com.au

9 neck creams that actually make a difference via Refinery29.com

10 best tinted moisturisers for healthy glowing skin without the heavy coverage via Independent.co.uk

The top 10 Vitamin C serums in Australia via Who.com.au

Asia Tatler’s editors’ picks: Must-have Summer skincare products via HK.AsiaTatler.com

7 low-key German skincare brands that should be on your radar via Vogue.co.uk

13 beauty gadgets you need on your vanity—and in your life via MarieClaire.com

21 skin-care products with near-perfect Amazon reviews via SFGate.com

9 “Intelligent” products to revolutionise your hair health via Vogue.co.uk

7 of the best oil-free moisturisers for every skin concern via Cosmopolitan.com

10 makeup removers that are heavy on mascara but light on your wallet via Vogue.in

7 setting sprays that actually hold up in hot weather via Glamour.com

7 face masks that will get rid of blackheads via Elle.com

26 Ways to wear Milk Bath nails via Popsugar.com

Honest Beauty debuts in Europe via WWD.com

Retailers, Brands, and Trends

Coty is said to be in talks for Kylie Cosmetics investment via WWD.com

Kylie Cosmetics may be homing in on a transaction after all.

Kylie Jenner is rumored to be selling Kylie Cosmetics via WMagazine.com

Coty , which owns O.P.I., Rimmel London, and Covergirl, is allegedly mulling over a $600 million purchase of a 51 percent stake.

Beauty giants cash in on wearable weed via Axios.com

CBD skincare products — which claim to hydrate, moisturize, cure acne, reduce wrinkles and even combat aging — are a big market, but nobody knows for sure if they really work.

Why it’s so hard for beauty brands to cross over from one category to another via BusinessOfFashion.com

Amidst a booming skincare market, makeup-first labels are angling to become purveyors of moisturisers and serums, too. But can a brand be an authority in both?

The Estée Lauder Companies partners with the Humane Society to end global animal testing via Allure.com

The beauty giant is joining the Humane Society International’s #BeCrueltyFree campaign.

Estée Lauder joins the fight against animal cruelty via PaperMag.com

“We are proud to partner with Humane Society International, an organization that has done such thoughtful work advocating for animals everywhere,” Anna Klein, senior vice president, global corporate affairs for The Estée Lauder Companies, said in a statement. “They have been a wonderful partner and advisor as we work together towards our common goal to bring an end to cosmetics animal testing, worldwide.”

Estée Lauder signs onto pledge to end cosmetic animal testing via TheHill.com

“I’m confident that by working together with beauty companies through our #BeCruelty campaign, we can help bring an end to cosmetics testing on animals by 2023.”

Estée Lauder CEO Fabrizio Freda on makeup trends and Chinese millennials via Barrons.com

Freda’s career has encompassed both mass and class; the Italian-born executive worked at Procter & Gamble (PG) and Gucci before joining Estée Lauder.

Beauty fans sound off on Mecca cosmetica’s use of the holy city in its name via Essence.com

Started by Jo Horgan in the mid-nineties, Mecca Cosmetica is sort of like an Australian Sephora, offering a beauty destination where you can shop countless prestige brands, and also take advantage of beauty experts on-hand. It also has a signature line of skincare products.

Exploring the rise of gender neutral beauty brands via HighSnobiety.com

Like a gender-reveal party in reverse, much of the beauty and grooming industry is cutting ties with prescriptive marketing and branding, moving towards a market that focuses on gender neutral beauty.

John Lewis & Partners launches new beauty product recycling scheme via GoodHouseKeeping.com

Teaming up with TerraCycle, who also work with The Body Shop, the retailer is trailing the scheme with members of its loyalty programme My John Lewis.

John Lewis has launched a BeautyCycle scheme and it’s exactly what we’ve been waiting for via GlamourMagazine.co.uk

The month-long trial begins on 14 June and all John Lewis shops with full-line beauty services will take part (36 shops) using TerraCycle’s Zero Waste Box solution. The trial’s purpose is to understand customer demand for beauty recycling, with a wider ambition to make the scheme permanent if successful – and we’re really hoping it will become a permanent fixture.

The rise of eco-friendly packaging in cosmetics via AdWeek.com

Cosmetics brands are creating packaging that’s sustainable, refillable, plastic-free and even package-free.

Two beauty brands are fighting over the exclusive right to use “BLUSH & GLOW” and “BRONZE & GLOW” via TheFashionLaw.com

In a complaint filed in New York federal court on Tuesday, “eco-chic” brand Tarte claims that its younger rival Natasha Denona Make Up – the brand behind the cult-followed $200 Sunset eye-shadow palette – is “intentionally and knowingly” making use of two of its federal registered trademarks

The beauty of Natura’s Avon acquisition: Appealing to Asia via Marketing-Interactive.com

Avon currently has stores in Johor Bahru, Kuala Lumpur, Melaka, Kedah, Perak and Negeri Sembilan, among others cities in Malaysia. In 2018, the company had more than 200,000 sales representatives and 168 outlets in Malaysia.

Should we be annoyed at beauty brands marketing off Pride? via DazedDigital.com

How should we feel about all of these beauty brands turning the ethos of Pride into a product or a hashtag – is it a cynical marketing ploy or a real push for change?

Nose jobs are china’s newest luxury item. This company is cashing in via Barrons.com

Beijing-based company called So-Young International —there’s no pun in Chinese—raised $179 million through an initial public offering on the Nasdaq Stock Market. Think of it as the Yelp of China’s plastic-surgery market.

Net-a-Porter launches Net Sustain, a platform to help customers identify environmentally friendly brands via Independent.co.uk

New section aims to give a voice to brands making positive changes

Beloved NYC beauty store Ricky’s may not be long for this cold world via Jezebel.com

The New York City beauty store Ricky’s, with its iconic electric blue toothpaste logo, may end up closing all but two stores

L’Oreal taps its first female president for the world’s biggest beauty brand via Fortune.com

L’Oreal SA has named the first female president of its flagship cosmetics label, elevating Delphine Viguier-Hovasse to the top job at the world’s biggest beauty brand.

Beauty industry has more female leaders than most, but men still dominate via Marketplace.org

While the beauty industry does have better representation of women in leadership roles than other industries, men still dominate the C-suite and boardroom — at least at the biggest companies.

Allure is growing its beauty box subscriptions through influencer collaborations via Glossy.co

Allure, which is owned by Condé Nast, declined to share current figures around its beauty box subscribers, but in 2016, it reportedly had 30,000. Membership is at an all-time high, up 80% year over year in 2018, said Jill Friedson, vp of marketing for Condé Nast Beauty Collection.

YouTube rolls out augmented reality for viewers to virtually try on makeup via CNBC.com

YouTube will allow viewers to virtually try on makeup using an augmented reality program called AR Beauty Try-On.

Youtube created AR filters that let you try on makeup with beauty vloggers via GritDaily.com

Next time you find yourself watching a beauty tutorial on YouTube you may notice a new feature: try it on. A new augmented reality plugin will let users virtually try on new makeup and beauty products through a filter in their camera.

Perfect Corp. brings the Global Beauty Tech Forum to New York City for an innovative look at the future of AI & AR technologies upgrading the consumer beauty experience via Finance.Yahoo.com

Perfect Corp. hosted the Global Beauty Tech Forum at Metropolitan West in New York City on Tuesday, June 18th in partnership with leading specialized talent agency, 24 Seven.

South Korean retailer Olive Young now ships to the United States via Allure.com

Sadly, Europeans won’t have access to the site, as it doesn’t ship to countries that require them to comply with the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR).

Why beauty mainstays like L’Oréal are enabling online consultations via PSFK.com

Catering to today’s digital-first audience with on-demand expectations, leading cosmetics and skincare brands are providing instant help with these digital appointments

How brands like Alibaba are using AI to further personalize skincare via PSFK.com

From interactive makeup mirrors to selfie-based skin analyses, leading brands based in Asia are bringing expert-led and personalized advice to consumers’ fingertips

‘It’s a challenge’: Kopari updates marketing strategy for sexual wellness launch via Glossy.co

Following moves into deodorant and oil puller in the last year, coconut-based, natural beauty brand Kopari is continuing its extension into personal care.

Sa Sa launches “Sa Sa Hong Kong Flagship Store” on HKTVmall via Finance.Yahoo.com

The Sa Sa Flagship Store on HKTVmall offers more than 1,200 SKUs consisting trendy skin care, make-up, fragrance and personal care products, catering the strong demand for quality beauty cosmetics products from local customers in Hong Kong.

Codex Beauty announces exclusive US retail partnership with Shen Beauty via Finance.Yahoo.com

Codex Beauty, a global, clean beauty skincare company, today announced that it has entered into their first exclusive retail partnership with SHEN Beauty, a Brooklyn-based beauty retailer specializing in natural and organic brands.

Skincare and Beauty

Microfibres found polluting the Great Barrier Reef via CosmosMagazine.com

How to not get sucked into the online skincare vortex via Mashable.com

Glass skin is not just erasure of ordinary faces – it’s the final step towards objectification via TheGuardian.com

A short history of manly beauty products for masculine men via Jezebel.com

The history of eyelashes: The tiny hairs that hold huge sway in the beauty industry via VirginMediaTelevision.ie

My locs aren’t dreadful, but navigating the beauty industry with them is via StyleCaster.com

Smearing cannabis on your face: the latest Asian beauty craze via Scmp.com

Japan enters the ‘makeup boy’ age with surge in makeup for men via Mainichi.jp

How the beauty industry is finally embracing menopause via Dazeddigital.com

Self-care and skincare aren’t always the same thing via VerilyMag.com

The age you should start using anti-aging skin care products, according to dermatologists via Finance.Yahoo.com

Stop buying into the idea of a skincare ‘holy grail’ via Mashable.com

The rise of “semi-bespoke” skincare via Vogue.co.uk

What are “cherry lips”? Your guide to South Korea’s biggest lip filler trend via Allure.com

Women spend 7 weeks of their lives washing their faces and applying moisturiser via TheSun.co.uk

Can DNA testing help you find your best workout, diet and skincare routine? via Vogue.in

The power couple of sun protection: Vitamin C and sunscreen via RealSimple.com

What exactly are antioxidants and their skincare benefits? via HypeBae.com

Gotu Kola is the new skincare ingredient and an Ayurvedic herb you may have used before via Vogue.in

Here’s what happened when I tried hyaluronic acid for the first time via HypeBae.com

Should you stop using a skincare product if you start breaking out? via Vogue.in

What the heck is squalane oil and why is it suddenly in all my skin-care products? via Self.com

Decoding the science behind skincare ingredients via DailyMaverick.co.za

If your skin routine doesn’t include vitamin E, you’re missing out via News.Yahoo.com

13 expert-approved ways to work glycolic acid into your skin-care routine via Fashionista.com

Is adding salt to your skincare routine good for your complexion? via Vogue.in

Are supplements the missing step to younger-looking skin? via Telegraph.co.uk

Can a Reiki facial heal your skin? via Vogue.co.uk

How your zodiac sign shapes your skincare & beauty regime, according to Soho House’s astrologer via Bustle.com

The ultimate summer haircare routine for afro-textured and curly hair via Independent.co.uk

How to safely remove acrylic nails, damage-free via Elle.com

I got my teeth professionally whitened and missed coffee desperately – but it was worth it via Popsugar.com

This makeup artist’s genius trick uses powder foundation to mirror the effects of contouring via Allure.com

What it’s like to get a facial for your scalp via Elle.com

How to take off your makeup the right way via Glamour.com

Celebrities, Influencers, and Interviews

#Sponcon: How beauty influencers are experiencing a crisis of authenticity via DazedDigital.Com

How is the industry moving forward in a bid to keep consumers buying in?

New Zealand plastic surgeon Dr Jonathan Wheeler says the industry gets regularly approached for free surgeries by influencers via Stuff.co.nz

Free procedures turned the relationship between the doctor and the patient, to an unhealthy one of a doctor and a client.

This is why Jaclyn Hill, James Charles, and Laura Lee don’t wear makeup in their apology videos via TeenVogue.com

Join us on this investigation into the intentional no-makeup looks of beauty YouTubers Jaclyn Hill, James Charles, and Laura Lee.

Authentically fake: Influencers are breaking boundaries between real and digital worlds via CampaignLive.co.uk

“The proliferation of AI and filters is trickling down to anyone with a smartphone and that speaks to a base interest a lot of people have bought into – the idea of transformation.”

Rachel Winard, founder of Soapwalla, on why we need to queer the beauty & skin care industry via MindBodyGreen.com

“We get a lot of the “shut up and sell me my skin care.” Any time I post anything queer, I’ll lose on average like 400 or 500 followers. Without fail. One hundred percent of the time. I get a decent amount of hate mail because I am so out.”

Queer Illustrator Wednesday opens up about their partnership with youth to the people for pride 2019 via Allure.com

“It was clear that they just wanted me to be me, and it made making the artwork so easy.”

SK-II’s new brand ambassador Yumi is not even real via PaperMag.com

Over the past few months, a new crop of virtual influencers have begun to replace the human kind. Last year, Balmain hired CGI modelsfor its campaign, and more recently, Calvin Klein had Bella Hadid make out with AI-generated virtual influencer Lil Miquela, who boasts close to 2 million Instagram followers.

SK-II taps virtual influencer Yumi as its new face via HK.AsiaTatler.com

SK-II is the latest brand to jump on the virtual influencer trend with its new ambassador, Yumi

NZ’s Soul Machines creates AI social media influencer Yumi for SK-II via Nzherald.co.nz

“The world’s first autonomously animated digital influencer.”

The new face of skincare brand SK-II is an AI avatar via DazedDigital.com

“YUMI is more than a digital influencer. She is a digital human capable of interacting and engaging in ways technology hasn’t been able to do until now.”

Kim Kardashian West announced a KKW Beauty collaboration with Winnie Harlow via TeenVogue.com

The moment in the episode, which was captured by fans and shared on Winnie’s Instagram Story, didn’t provide to many specifics regarding possible products, but the episode included a behind-the-scenes look at the pair’s photo shoot for whatever beauty goodies they’re working on.

Cardi B Says She’s Done With Plastic Surgery After Liposuction Complications via Allure.com

“Bitch I ain’t getting surgery again.”

6 beauty secrets I learned from Rachel Brosnahan via Elle.com

The new Cetaphil brand ambassador on where she saves—and splurges—in her skincare and makeup routine.

Chrissy Teigen shows us the lengths she goes to get makeup onto every inch of her body via Popsugar.com

Chrissy Teigen just gave a glimpse of her makeup routine from a different angle.

John Legend opens up about his beauty routine and the lessons he learned from Chrissy via Popsugar.com

“That’s why I moved to LA — to have a [big] bathroom.”

John Legend loved this skincare product so much, he wrote a song about it via Instyle.com

John Legend debuts his song “Oh Pitera,” an ode to the cult-favorite skincare product.

John Legend stars alongside James Corden in SK-II’s new skincare show via News.Yahoo.com

Even Chrissy Teigen and John Legend’s shared skin-care routine is chill via Allure.com

YouTuber Nadine Baggott’s must-have skin care products for enviously clear skin via Heart.co.uk

The members of (G)I-dle are changing what it means to be in a K-pop girl group. via Allure.com

Model Aaron Philip reveals her favorite beauty products via Allure.com

How Tiyana Robinson is leaving a beauty mark on her industry via Entrepreneur.com

“I’m a makeup artist and international beauty educator based in Washington, D.C., best known for my “wearable glam” look for women of color.”

Troye Sivan mentions upcoming nail polish and candles in new video via Popsugar.com

“I’m testing out some scents and things for a little project.”

Five minutes with makeup artist Daniel Martin via WWD.com

The Dior brand ambassador and Honest Beauty chief color consultant shares beauty hacks and his best memory of working on Meghan Markle’s wedding makeup look.

Watch Jess Clements walk through her nightly skincare routine via HarpersBazaar.com

The ‘Dewy Dudes’ on every product in their skin-care routine via NYMag.com

“We are 25-year-old Emilio and 25-year-old Evan. We’re ordinary guys who live in New York. We’re also the Dewy Dudes, a meme account turned podcast that combines skin care with bro-speak.”

Steal former Miss Texas Daniella Rodriguez’s skincare routine via Parade.com

Facialist Teresa Tarmey is bringing her skincare techniques to India via Vogue.in

Teresa Tarmey has worked with Victoria’s Secret models like Alessandra Ambrosio and Josephine Skriver in the past. And now, you can reap the benefits of her expertise too

The business advice Evan Spiegel gave Miranda Kerr for her skin-care brand via Hollywoodreporter.com

The model launched a new serum with a Malibu pool party, where Katy Perry did a crystal reading.

Steal pop singer Kim Petras’ skincare routine via Parade.com

Model Aaron Philip reveals her favorite beauty products of all time via Allure.com

She also opens up about her new role with Unilever’s “United We Stand” campaign in new interview with Allure.

Dove Cameron’s makeup artist takes inspiration from strawberry shortcake, burnt toast, and sliced ham via TeenVogue.com

Ever wondered what it’s like to get ready for drag? Jan Sport sashays through the process via Popsugar.com

Bella Thorne’s guide to acne-prone skin care and glitter eyes via Video.Vogue.com

Bella Thorne says washing her face less helped reduce her acne breakouts via Allure.com

Phoebe Robinson on the 1 product she’d recommend to her favorite person, Bono via Popsugar.com

Halsey showed off unshaven armpits on her rolling stone cover via TeenVogue.com

The talented makeup artists behind your favorite celebrities’ beauty looks via Popsugar.com

While celebrities usually work with more than one makeup artist (the good ones book up fast!), these 20 artists are some of the best in the business.

Rose-Marie Swift talks RMS Beauty, her favorite products, and more via Coveteur.com

Tyra Banks launches body positive mini-series, says it will ‘expand and redefine the definition of beauty’ via People.com

3 questions with Dr. Roebuck’s co-founder Kim Roebuck via Glossy.co

Osaka U researcher to receive academic prize at Cosmetic Victories 2019 via Eurekalert.org

Jenelle Evans has plans to release a makeup line in the fall, but an animal rights group might thwart it! via Cheatsheet.com

A day well spent with Susie Willis, founder of natural skincare brand Romilly Wilde via Standard.co.uk

The making of a skincare range with Jennifer Rock, creator of Skingredients via Image.ie

Meet David Alpert: Skincare CEO, marine photographer, and environmental advocate via BusinessLeader.co.uk

Holistic beauty guru Barbara Close of Naturopathica explains when natural skin care ingredients aren’t enough via HuffPost.com

An interview with Synergie Skin’s founder Terri Vinson via WomenLoveTech.com

Men in beauty: Meet the co-founder behind the world’s first Peranakan skincare line via AsiaOne.com

Research and Technology

Randomized parallel control trial checking the efficacy and impact of two concentrations of retinol in the original formula on the aging skin condition: Pilot study via Journal Of Cosmetic Dermatology

Hypertrophic and keloid scars fail to progress from the CD34-/ α-SMA+ immature scar phenotype and show gradient differences in α-SMA and P16 expression. via British Journal Of Dermatology

Curcumin suppresses IL‐6 production in THP‐1 monocytes induced by Propionibacterium acnes extracts via down‐regulation of TLR2 expression and the NF‐κB pathway via British Journal Of Dermatology

Is there a causal relationship between vitamin D and melanoma risk? : A Mendelian randomization study via British Journal Of Dermatology

Management of psoriasis as a systemic disease: What is the evidence? via British Journal Of Dermatology

Providing dermatologic care to Indigenous American and Alaskan Native communities through telehealth via Jama Dermatology

Psoriatic lesions are characterized by higher bacterial load and imbalance between Cutibacterium and Corynebacterium via Journal Of The American Academy Of Dermatology

The clinical utility of laboratory monitoring during isotretinoin therapy for acne and changes to monitoring practices over time via Journal Of The American Academy Of Dermatology

An increase in sunscreen use in a population resistant to sun protection via Journal Of The American Academy Of Dermatology

Having a first-degree relative with melanoma increases lifetime risk of melanoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and basal cell carcinoma via Journal Of The American Academy Of Dermatology

Online skin disease hoaxes: Widespread and credible to viewers via Journal Of The American Academy Of Dermatology

Classification and influencing factors analysis of facial skin color in Chinese population via Skin Research & Technology

Clinical evaluation of the safety and efficacy of a timosaponin A‐III‐based antiwrinkle agent against skin aging via Journal Of Cosmetic Dermatology

Transdermal permeation effect of collagen hydrolysates of deer sinew on mouse skin, ex vitro, and antioxidant activity, increased type I collagen secretion of percutaneous proteins in NIH/3T3 cells via Journal Of Cosmetic Dermatology

Laser skin rejuvenation with fractional 1064 Q‐switched Nd:YAG in 252 patients: An Indian experience via Journal Of Cosmetic Dermatology

A cosmetic treatment based on the secretion of Cryptomphalus aspersa 40% improves the clinical results after the use of nonablative fractional laser in skin aging via Journal Of Cosmetic Dermatology

Well‐aging: A new strategy for skin homeostasis under multi‐stressed conditions via Journal Of Cosmetic Dermatology

Heat transfer in human hair via International Journal Of Cosmetic Science

Evolution of the use of antioxidants in anti‐aging cosmetics via International Journal Of Cosmetic Science

Topical monomethylsilanetriol can deliver silicon to the viable skin via International Journal Of Cosmetic Science

Development and characterization of new topical hydrogels based on alpha lipoic acid—hydrotalcite hybrids via Cosmetics

Unique hair properties that emerge from combinations of multiple races via Cosmetics

Extracellular vesicles in human skin: cross-talk from senescent fibroblasts to keratinocytes by miRNAs via Journal Of Investigative Dermatology

Fueling melanocytes with ATP from keratinocytes accelerates melanin synthesis via Journal Of Investigative Dermatology

Dermocosmetics: beneficial adjuncts in the treatment of acne vulgaris. via Journal Of Dermatological Treatment

Efficacy and safety of Run Zao Zhi Yang capsule on chronic eczema: a multiple-center, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study. via Journal Of Dermatological Treatment

Treating excess lower eyelid skin without incisions via Aesthetic Plastic Surgery

Long-term effectiveness and safety of up to 48 weeks ’ treatment with topical Adapalene 0.3%/Benzoyl Peroxide 2.5% gel in the prevention and reduction of atrophic acne scars in moderate and severe facial acne via American Journal Of Clinical Dermatology

Characteristics of skin cancers among adult patients in an urban Malaysian population. via Australasian Journal Of Dermatology

Evaluation of antidiabetic, dermatoprotective, neuroprotective and antioxidant activities of Chrysanthemum fontanesii flowers and leaves extracts via Biocatalysis And Agricultural Biotechnology

Automatic evaluation of stratum basale and dermal papillae using ultrahigh resolution optical coherence tomography via Biomedical Signal Processing And Control

Korean red ginseng water extract alleviates atopic dermatitis-like inflammatory responses by negative regulation of mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling pathway in vivo via Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy

“Smart” polymer enhances the efficacy of topical antimicrobial agents via Burns

Skin protective effects of an antipollution, antioxidant serum containing Deschampsia antartica extract, ferulic acid and vitamin C: a controlled single-blind, prospective trial in women living in urbanized, high air pollution area. via Clinical, Cosmetic And Investigational Dermatology

Pharmacological, biochemical, and histopathological evaluations of cutaneous wound healing property of Mentha piperita aqueous extract ointment via Comparative Clinical Pathology

Antioxidant, cytotoxic, and wound healing effects of Allium saralicum R.M. Fritsch aqueous extract ointment in male rats: a gross, histological, and biochemical experiment via Comparative Clinical Pathology

Ameliorative effects of snake (Deinagkistrodon acutus) oil and its main fatty acids against UVB-induced skin photodamage in mice via Journal Of Photochemistry And Photobiology B: Biology

25-Hydroxyvitamin D deficiency: Impacting deep-wound infection and poor healing outcomes in patients with diabetes via Skin & Wound Care

Histopathology of cutaneous aging via The American Journal Of Dermatopathology

"#BeautyRecap: June 25th, 2019" on KindofStephen.

]]> 3405 #BeautyRecap: June 18th, 2019 https://www.kindofstephen.com/beautyrecap-june-18th-2019/ Tue, 18 Jun 2019 12:55:48 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3392 Products and Reviews Kim Kardashian is releasing foundation for your body Kim Kardashian is launching the new KKW Body Collection, complete with the Skin Perfecting Body Shimmer, Loose Shimmer Powder for Face & Body, Body Brush, and Skin Perfecting Body Make Up Foundation. Kim Kardashian wants you to start wearing foundation on your body Kim […]

"#BeautyRecap: June 18th, 2019" on KindofStephen.

]]> Products and Reviews

Kim Kardashian is releasing foundation for your body

Kim Kardashian is launching the new KKW Body Collection, complete with the Skin Perfecting Body Shimmer, Loose Shimmer Powder for Face & Body, Body Brush, and Skin Perfecting Body Make Up Foundation.

Kim Kardashian wants you to start wearing foundation on your body

Kim Kardashian wants you to start using foundation on your body. Yep, that’s right. KKW Beauty’s latest collection is one targeted at the legs, arms, and everywhere else, with the aim to “blur imperfections, enhance skin tone, and provide a flawless finish for any look.”

Kim Kardashian is coming out with a new KKW foundation — and it’s for your body

You can buy everything individually or buy the Skin Perfecting Body Foundation & Brush Duo for $64, the Skin Perfecting Body Shimmer Trio for $100, the Shimmer Powder for Face & Body Trio for $74, and the Complete Body Shimmer & Brush Collection for $200. So set those reminders for June 21 at noon PST, because that’s when the collection drops on kkwbeauty.com.

Pat McGrath enters the foundation game with 36 shades

Described as her “secret to runway radiance,” it’s the first release in the new Pat McGrath complexion trio, which also includes the Sublime Perfection Primer and Setting Powder.

Pat McGrath is about to launch the ultimate foundation system

As Mcgrath told a group of beauty editors that the foundation, primer, and setting powder are a return to this “lab” concept, and she’s dubbed it Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection The System. In other words, it’s “a foundation system that will enable you to do exactly what we do,” McGrath explains. “Prime, prep, and perfect.”

Pat McGrath just dropped a major new lipstick line

Pat McGrath Labs just launched nine brand-new shades of her disco-ready BlitzTrance lipstick at Selfridges, and the formula has been tweaked to deliver a smoother, creamier finish.

Drunk Elephant just reformulated its best-selling Lala Retro Whipped Moisturizer

“I believe there is always room for improvement,” the brand’s founder, Tiffany Masterson, tells Allure. “When it occurred to me that ceramides needed a more prominent place in my line, I decided to add them to a product that was already great instead of making a whole new product. I didn’t know I could like it [Lala Whipped Retro Cream] more, but I do.”

We put Glossier’s Boy Brow and Brow Flick head to head to see which one creates fuller brows

Glossier just added another essential to its family of makeup and skin care. The Brow Flick ($18) is an eyebrow pen with a brush tip. It dispenses a pigmented ink, making it easy to create fuller, more defined brows with just gentle flicks of your wrist.

Glossier’s latest launch will give you the thicc brows of your dreams

Boy Brow came out four years ago (feel old yet?) and is meant to refine brows rather than add more depth to sparse areas like this new product does. However, the duo work together to give you the complete brow package.

We tried Glossier’s new brow pen, and it’s as good as microblading

“It goes on thin so you can create realistic-looking strokes. And even when I did accidentally go heavy-handed, it’s easy to smudge off. Don’t get it twisted, though: It stays put—all day—after you let it dry.”

Glossier’s new Brow Flick pen creates the look of fuller eyebrows

“I think it’s really important to use it with the pen pointing down and only use the tip of the pen,” Hughes says, adding remarkably realistic marks both below and above her natural brow shape. “If you do it like this, you’ll get really nice, feathery strokes.”

Glossier’s newest product Brow Flick is here

The key ingredients are copolymers, a combination of three water-resistant film formers that make the formula longwearing and superfine pigments, sheer pigmentation for a natural “hair-like” finish.

A Spongebob Squarepants makeup collection is coming — here’s how to get your hands on it

This epic collection comes in celebration of the 20th anniversary of Nickelodeon’s beloved cartoon character.

SpongeBob, the OG influencer, just landed his own makeup collaboration

The collection, which will be available on the brand’s website starting July 17, will include a colorful makeup palette (available for $30), a blush-bronzer, lip glosses (including a blue shade called Coral No.5), and sheet masks inspired by the shows iconic characters.

We put Kylie Jenner’s face wash to the white towel test

“I had low expectations for the Foaming Face Wash, considering Kylie didn’t even properly wash her face in the video, but I was pleasantly surprised.”

Three beauty experts weigh in on what they think of Kylie Skin

A beauty editor tried the collection for two straight weeks and enlisted the help of dermatologists Dhaval Bhanusali, MD, and cosmetic chemist Ni’kita Wilson for their thoughts on each Kylie Skin product.

BH Cosmetics just launched a space-themed makeup collection

The collection was announced earlier this week on the brand’s Instagram and includes two standout products: the Stellar Lash Mascara and the Stellar Collision 17 Eye Shadow and Highlight Palette.

This tool means never making a makeup mess on the back of your hand ever again

The Makeup Hand Palette, by a brand called MakeupBoxLdn, isn’t a palette in the way we so often think of them in the context of beauty these days. Instead of being a set of color-filled pans, it’s more like the old-school definition of a palette — the slab artists use to hold globules of their chosen paint colors.

Klorane’s Anti-Pollution shampoo and conditioner claims to depollute water while detoxifying hair

“Although a huge amount of the product would be needed to make a real difference, it’s an interesting way the beauty industry can start to make…”

Orcé, a cosmetic startup created for Asian Americans

Catrena Laluangphet says she’s had a hard time finding the right shade of foundation because she is half Southeast Asian and half black. Laluangphet’s search ended when she found Orcé Cosmetics through Instagram. Orcé’s CEO and founder Yu-Chen Shih shared the same frustration.

Physicians Formula just added gorgeous rose-shaped highlighters to its Rosé collection

Originally planned to launch July 3, Physicians Formula released its Petal Glow Highlighter from the Rosé All Day Collection early

Schick Intuition is releasing the Hello Kitty razors of your kawaii dreams

Shick Intuition is blessing Sanrio fans with two Hello Kitty razors that are sure to sell out fast. While there have been Hello Kitty makeup tools, cleansing devices, and even trains for megafans to fawn over for years, this is the first time the cute cat has been put on a razor.

Popular German brand Zoeva Just landed in the us – here’s what to shop

German brand Zoeva just launched in the US with an array of silky-soft brushes, pigmented eye shadows, and creamy pencils that makeup-lovers will adore for its superb formulations.

Pāmu launches deer milk beauty products in South Korea

The Deerest range includes a rich cream, face milk and spa mask and the products sell for NZ$60-80 in Yuhan’s New Origin stores and online.

New Zealand deer milk used for the first time in lucrative Korean cosmetic market

Deer milk produced in New Zealand is being used in the lucrative Asian beauty industry for the first time – thanks to a deer farm worker who noticed her hands were getting softer.

Tinsley Mortimer flirts with her It Girl past and bats her lashes at her future

Mortimer is launching XXO Tinsley for Winky Lux, a new collaboration of fake lashes with the beauty brand Winky Lux.

Chiara Ferragni tells us how she gets the “blonde” in The Blonde Salad and her collaboration with Lancôme

Lancôme came calling and asked Ferragni to lend her impeccable Italian tastes (and wide blue eyes) to a limited-edition selection of things to put on your lips, lids, lashes, and cheeks. The results? Well, it’s safe to say nothing got lost in translation.

Double dose on SPF with these 9 makeup products

While this doesn’t give you the green light to skip basic sunscreen, since these products aren’t simply enough to protect your skin, the double-dose of sun care ensures that you’ll look gorgeous and feel safe.

The 10 best concealers you can buy at the drugstore

Recommended by PopSugar.com

These are, by far, the best beauty products at Bath and Body Works

Bath and Body Works has filled our homes with irresistible scents for nearly 30 years, whether it be via a comforting candle, a sweet-scented body spray, or a silky hand soap.

A definitive list of the best beauty products you can buy at Lush

Walking into a Lush Cosmetics store is a sensory experience as much as it is a shopping trip. It’s easy to get lost in its bright colors, irresistible, fresh scents, and wide range of textures.

These are the 15 Sigma makeup brushes you need in your collection

Sigma Beauty started in 2009 with a set of synthetic, high-quality makeup brushes that didn’t shed and applied makeup like a dream. YouTube “beauty gurus” raved about them, and my teenage heart lusted for these affordable tools (but alas, I did not have a credit card). Ten years later, I’m a beauty editor who owns dozens of these cruelty-free babies…

The best Korean face creams and gels to use during the summer

Summer means glorious sunshine, ice cream, and a new skincare regimen! It’s a season that requires a skincare change-up to products that are lightweight, and where less means more.

5 gender-fluid beauty brands you need to know

Beauty no longer has one type of look, skin tone or shape. Growing representation in media and entertainment has directly impacted the expectations of consumers. People are looking to hone their natural features, experiment with makeup and create their own standards without outside input.

Everything you need to know about Westman Atelier

“American make-up artist Gucci Westman has quite the legacy: she’s been behind countless fashion magazine covers, catwalk trends, and celebrity looks. Her clientele includes Hollywood heavyweights Jennifer Aniston, Gwyneth Paltrow, Reese Witherspoon and Cameron Diaz.

I just tried 50 highlighters—these are the ones I’d recommend

Highlighters are basically the spokespeople of Instagram beauty. Along with severe brows and super matte liquid lipstick, it’s a look that has come to define the digital age of beauty.

Nigerian actress, Chika Ike, to launch cosmetics line

“I am super excited to announce that Chika Cosmetics will launch in August. It’s been over two years of planning, visiting factories and testing products to get the best quality but affordable cosmetics”

Cools.com showcases brands that are celebrating “real” beauty

We’re giving a round of applause to a few of the people at the forefront of changing beauty for the better. Here, find some of the most iconic, unedited moments in beauty.

Retailers, Brands, and Trends

Stores like Sephora need a lot more than one hour of diversity training

“As a black woman, shopping for makeup can be fraught even when my shades are available.”

L’Oréal and Vogue challenge beauty perceptions after 50

In a culture where women over 50 still feel increasingly invisible as they get older, L’Oréal wants to show the world that age is not an issue and women are beautiful at every stage of their lives. It wants to challenge stereotypes and positively shape our perception of age, fostering a community where everyone embraces growing older.

Chanel bets on planet-friendly luxury with ‘green’ silk maker Evolved by Nature

Evolved by Nature, based in Boston, was started by biomedical engineer Rebecca Lacouture and chemist Gregory Altman in 2013. Their product is pure silk in liquid form, a regenerative technology made from discarded silkworm cocoons. The company has patented dozens of molecular combinations of the natural silk protein since filing its first application in 2014.

Additional coverage on Fortune.com

An interview with Jane Anders, senior vice president of R&D, product development and packaging development at Estée Lauder Companies

“Sakura, definitely! This ingredient is in Estée Lauder’s latest Sakura Micro-Essence. The ritual of watery lotion originated in Japan. Asian consumers have the most complex skincare regimes in the world – many women use seven or eight products as part of their daily skincare routine, so a lightweight texture is important. Asian consumers believe that lotion prepares their skin for the rest of the products. Lotion is not commonly used in the Western market, but it is truly transformational.”

Mecca Commands 25% Market Share of Prestige Beauty in Austrailia

Living in Australia and working for L’Oréal as a project manager, Jo Horgan saw an opportunity to sell beauty in a different way then the branded department store model. In 1997 she left her job, sold her home to help raise funds, and founded Mecca, opening the first location in Melbourne’s upmarket South Yarra suburb.

Inside the new Harrods beauty hall with magic make-up mirrors

The first phase of the three-part refurbishment, which will finish in 2020, was unveiled today and beauty fans are in for a treat. There’s fireplaces in each room, a dressing room and a library, complete with a sweeping staircase you’re more likely to find in a country house.

Jane Hertzmark Hudis on why beauty needs a global perspective

“Trends come from everywhere,” said Hudis, group president, Estée Lauder Companies

Suddenly everything can be personalized

Personalized hair masks, facial serums, and vitamin cocktails are no longer reserved for the wealthy, thanks to technology—and data collection.

Missha cosmetic stores across Korea remodel to NUNC multi-brand shop

According to cosmetics industry on Thursday, cosmetics maker Able C&C and its owner private equity fund IMM Private Equity have decided to remodel one-brand cosmetics shop Missha as multi-brand cosmetics store under new name NUNC.

Foreo: This beauty and wellness brand is the master of sonic vibration

“Our products are in a state of constant evolution,” states Hoxha. “Similarly to our lives, functional design is ever-evolving because we always want to improve what we currently have based on where we want to go”

Acne brand Hero Cosmetics leans on wellness movement to build consumer trust

“We are moving in a more ‘wellness’ direction; we want to see how our customers respond and get their feedback,” said Rhyu. “[While] I don’t have a three-year road map yet, we may become more of a lifestyle-oriented company.”

South Korean beauty industry facing China troubles

The Korean wave is sweeping the world, but Korean beauty products are gradually losing…the Chinese cosmetics market has hit a great wall.

On-demand beauty apps BeGlammed and Priv announce merger

Starting today, both app-based companies will now operate as one under the Priv brand. Having raised a combined $15m in funding, with both companies founded in 2014, the two technology-driven beauty companies are joining forces to expand their footprint and to create efficiencies on the consumer and service provider sides.

Olive Young launches global online mall for foreign shoppers

Famous beauty and cosmetics shops in the US have already set up K-beauty sections, amid increasing demand, especially from millennial customers.

As it ramps up in Walgreens, Birchbox debuts brand campaign

“It’s a year of renewal for Birchbox. Armed with drugstore giant Walgreens as a new minority stake investor, the nine-year-old beauty brand has been making changes to its offerings with increased prices and gender-free products.”

Next-generation beauty tech is AI and AR

“We believe beauty tech is driving the next beauty revolution,” said Wayne Liu, senior vice president and general manager of Perfect Corp., pointing to a multitude of article headlines on the subject, with his favorite being “The Next Tech Unicorn Will Be Wearing Lipstick.”

Are beauty supplements here to stay?

Hum Nutrition cofounders Walter Faulstroh and Chris Coleridge stress the importance of building trust, education and engagement in the ingestible beauty category.

What’s changing the face of beauty?

The health and beauty industries have undergone some big changes in the last few years, and there is more to come. While some new players make up less than 0.1% of the market on their own, together the ‘challengers’ are really making waves – changing consumer expectations, pushing innovation, and encouraging established brands to think differently about products, packaging and routes to market.

Beyond the hype: Iman Fandi on Gen Z beauty

“I find makeup artists like James Charles the more influential of the digital lot, they really have a say in shaping the future of the beauty industry.”

Bluemercury will explore CBD line ‘in next 24 months’, says co-founder

“I think we’re at the very beginning of how this is going to change skincare,” Beck said. “We really want to make sure we’re doing the right thing for our customers.”

How BTS and other K-pop idols are putting their faces to good use – getting mask sales to soar

Korean beauty experts attribute the sheet mask’s overwhelming popularity to its functionality, approachability and the influence of Hallyu

New Ways The Beauty Industry Is Testing Sustainable Practices

As much as 70% of plastic waste generated by the industry isn’t recycled. Instead, it ends up in landfills, according to the EPA.

Beauty giant Unilever just bought Tatcha for an estimated $500 million

“Thanks to Vicky’s passion and expertise, iconic products like The Water Cream and The Silk Canvas have become the cornerstone of long-term consumer loyalty,” Vasiliki Petrou, Unilever executive vice president and CEO of the Prestige Group

No one knows it but these 3 industries now depend on AI

Consumers can’t seem to get enough of sustainability and personalization. In the beauty space, AI is helping firms deliver both. By aligning cosmetic shades and styles with specific shoppers’ skin features, AI is ending the beauty product guessing game.

Why China’s affluent young beauty consumers crave fresh new ‘niche’ products

Report says 60 per cent of Shanghai, Beijing and Guangzhou shoppers are ‘very curious’ about trying small, specialised brands, such as Diptyque, Jo Malone, AHAVA and BABOR

Trade war and swine fever take toll on beauty industry

The U.S.-China trade war and an unstoppable swine fever have claimed an unexpected victim – the health and beauty industry, as collagen prices surge.

Evolution of digital storytelling in fashion and beauty culture

Social media storytelling needs to imply authentic, small, instant content that quickly draws attention but leaves a strong impression so that it needs to be distributed. Encourage others to share stories, to take action such as liking, commenting, and re-posting.

Some 20000 Indian children behind the shimmer of cosmetics

India is the world’s largest producer of mica, which is used in cosmetics and paint production. On World Day against Child Labour, the People’s Vigilance Committee on Human Rights presents a report on mica mining in Bihar and Jharkhand. The photos of Ravi Mishra show the tragedy of child miners, deprived of their rights as children.

Skincare and Beauty

Dangerous skin bleaching has become a public health crisis. Corporate marketing lies behind it.

In the past several years, multinational corporations have heavily marketed the idea that lighter skin leads to more prosperity. As a result, dangerous skin bleaching has become a public health crisis, according to the World Health Organization (WHO). In response, the East African Legislative Assembly (EALA) recently passed a resolution recommending a regional ban on cosmetics with hydroquinone, a skin-bleaching agent — a ban that looks likely to pass.

You’ve heard of fast fashion, but fast beauty is a thing too and the environmental risks can’t be …

Stephen Clarke, Head of Communications at recycling company Terracycle, explains: “Beauty industry products and packaging have to look good and be pretty so consumers pick them off the shelf and buy them. Plastic packaging brings down production and transportation costs for producers, offering an accessible price for consumers, making beauty and personal care products easy to use, and encouraging disposal and new purchases.”

Addicted to your tanning bed? Your genes and mental health may both play a role

No longer a disease of people overexposed throughout their lifetimes to the sun, skin cancer is increasingly common in women in their 20s, 30s, or early 40s – the first generation to use tanning beds in their teens.

Women bypass the gatekeepers of the beauty industry in an era of social media and inclusivity

Increasingly, with the explosion of social media, women started talking directly to each other, bypassing a host of gatekeepers altogether. Social platforms helped push women’s issues to the forefront and opened up unmediated spaces for long-suppressed voices and perspectives – from women of colour, members of the LGBTQ community, Indigenous women, unapologetic feminists from those or other communities, and those lobbying for body positivity.

Why does liking your body — and hating “wellness culture” — still seem so radical?

Knoll argues that our new cultural obsession with “wellness” is just dieting in disguise — “and the diet industry is a function of the patriarchal beauty standard under which women either punish themselves to become smaller or are punished for failing to comply.”

Bronzers is still a beauty category that is not inclusive for women of color, and we need to talk about it

With my new found love for bronzer and brands seemingly taking note that black women want to bronze too, I set forth to find every black girl-friendly bronzer on the market. With all the talks of inclusivity in the beauty industry, I was very confident in my ability to do so. Instead, I was left frustrated, confused, and in search of answers. With all the extensive foundation launches, why haven’t brands put the same energy into making inclusivity an all-around effort?

How to tell if your laundry detergent is messing with your skin

“Using too much can cause the detergent to become impregnated between fibers of the fabric and come into direct contact with the skin as you wear the clothing,” Dr. Zeichner says, “Especially if you have a high-efficiency washing machine, you really want to make sure you’re only using the amount of detergent recommended.”

3 dermatologists weigh in on if you should use a loofah

Chances are some of your earliest memories of bath time involved a loved one scrubbing you down with a colorful loofah. However, have you ever wondered if you should use a loofah?

‘Natural’ labels on beauty products are meaningless, so look for options without fragrances, dyes

The term “natural” on cosmetics is not universally or legally defined.

The complete guide to at-home wax hair removal

As tempting as it is to banish your peach fuzz, if it’s your first time waxing, Nad’s brand ambassador and beauty expert, Natalie Ismiel, recommends waiting at least two weeks after shaving before waxing.

What you need to know about the “skip care” skin-care trend

In many ways, it’s the antithesis of the popular 10-plus-step beauty routines. Although just as trendy and effective, skip care involves paring down your product and ingredient load to only a few overachieving essentials. It’s going back to basics and using a select number of powerful products that offer a multitude of skin benefits without sacrificing any efficacy.

Can you actually shrink your pores? A dermatologist weighs in

Going to hit you with a harsh truth out the gate: “You can minimize the appearance of your pores, but because pore sizes are genetically determined, you can’t really shrink them,” explains Dr. Sobel.

Tattoo separation anxiety in a Tokyo bathhouse

Allure’s digital beauty reporter Devon Abelman shares her experience going to a bathhouse at her hotel in Tokyo, Japan. Having tattoos is typically prohibited at Japanese public baths, so she reveals what it was like covering up her body art with special seals and how she learned to accept unexpected parts of her body because of it.

I got eyebrow extensions and here’s what happened

How I went from a child’s brows to a full-grown woman’s.

How to protect your skin from the sun like a dermatologist

Consider this your official, dermatologist-approved permission to spend time outdoors this summer. “It’s OK to have fun in the sun, as long as you are sun smart,” says Joshua Zeichner, director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.

Beyoncé’s makeup artist Sir John did a tutorial, and we’re going to look flawless

If you’ve ever seen a Beyoncé performance and wondered how her makeup stays on even after the intense dance moves, you’ve likely been impressed by the work of her makeup artist Sir John.

Toning my scalp helped cure my dandruff

As it turns out, you should be toning your scalp just like you tone your skin. The one I’ve grown to love is from Korean haircare and skincare brand Moremo.

3 beauty products you should avoid on your wedding day, according to experts

But before booking yourself that facial the night before or spot-treating a surprise zit the morning of, take a close look your product’s label. We’ve tapped cosmetic chemist Ni’Kita Wilson and dermatologist Deanne Robinson, MD, to tell us what skincare products we should and shouldn’t be using before the big day.

An inside look at “skin botox,” the most popular injectable treatment in South Korea

The needle is inserted about 40 to 50 times along the jawline, forehead, and undereye area. For comparison, standard Botox is injected about three to five times.

Fake tan guide: How to apply in six steps, according to experts

Thanks to technological advances in the beauty industry, there is now a new generation of foolproof tanning products that take all the fear out of going faux.

Celebrities and Interviews

What’s really going on with Jaclyn Hill’s lipsticks?

Here’s everything that has transpired with the controversy.

Jaclyn Hill cosmetics customers are reporting lipsticks with hair and mold in them

On May 30, a collection of nude lipsticks, created by Jaclyn, officially launched to the public, Buzzfeed reported/ Almost immediately, customers took to social media, informing Jaclyn that their lipsticks weren’t arriving as expected.

How Jaclyn Hill’s lipstick scandal could transform the YouTube make-up industry forever

The release of YouTuber Jaclyn Hill’s first lipstick collection sparked outrage across the Internet. Sirena Bergman asks if this will sound the death knell for influencer collaborations.

Jaclyn hill released a Youtube video addressing reports of hair found in her lipstick

In a statement emailed to Teen Vogue from a Jaclyn Cosmetics spokesperson, they confirmed that products “are made with cosmetic industry-standard, FDA compliant ingredients and are produced in an OTC (Over the Counter) compliant factory that is registered with the FDA, providing high degrees of safety standards and rigorous testing. The issues reported over the last several days are related to irregularities in the manufacturing process which are being fixed and do not impact the ingredients, formula, or safety of our products.”

Jojo Siwa issues statement after her Claire’s makeup set was recalled over asbestos concerns

“I just wanted to let you guys know the situation,” JoJo continued. “Thank you for understanding, because it is serious to me, and it means a lot to me. It is my name, my brand, and it is my face — quite literally.”

Jojo Siwa speaks out about her Claire’s makeup set recalled over asbestos concerns

“Claire’s stands behind the safety of this item and all other Claire’s cosmetic items, as such small trace amounts are considered acceptable under European and Canadian cosmetic safety regulations…In addition, last year Claire’s moved to talc-free cosmetic manufacturing to prevent any further concerns about talc contamination. Claire’s also supports increased FDA oversight of personal care products. We will provide a full refund to any customers who purchased the product.”

How Marc Jacobs makes beauty products that turn into cult-favorites

“I love playing with makeup and color, but we’re not stage makeup,” Jacobs tells InStyle of his brand. “We’re a beauty line that you use to create a look, but you as an individual still comes through.”

How Pat McGrath revolutionized the beauty industry

Her experience of coming up in an industry with little representation to relate to or products that worked for her skin tone shaped her guiding principle to create makeup that not only connects with women and men of all shapes, sizes, and genders but to create makeup that empowers the individual.

Supermodel Cindy Crawford calls out ageist trolls who shame her for modelling at 53

“I remember some snarky person on Instagram – there seem to be a lot of those – posted something like, ‘Ah, why are you still doing those at your age?’” Crawford recalled.

Did Pat Mcgrath just miss the mark big time?

McGrath’s small shade range feels like a slap to the face—so why isn’t anyone talking about it? Could it be that no one wants to go after one of the biggest names in beauty, or is it because we’re in a “pick and choose” callout culture?

Creating Emma Chamberlain, the most interesting girl on Youtube

Chamberlain recalls her first few videos—a failed attempt to be a serious beauty vlogger; something with fidget spinners—with a laugh. “Honestly, I was posting videos just to have something to do,” she says. “At the time, yes, it felt like it was for nothing.” The videos got “50 views, max,” she says.

Filipino Actress Janine Tugonon On Hollywood’s Asian Representation

“My first struggle when I moved here was with modeling. Yes, they liked my beauty, but in general, if [brands] get Asian representation, it’s usually [someone who is] Chinese, Japanese, or Korean. Some [models] have darker skin tones, but I feel like [brands] got used to Asians with lighter skin tones. So a lot of the Pacific Islanders, the Asians down in the islands who have darker skin tones, are still not globally known or widely used [in campaigns]”

Lola Lorenzo Mizrahi: ‘I was the first trans Somali makeup artist people saw’

Lola’s is a story of a rising talent in the Somalian beauty industry met with cultural intolerance, transphobia, hate crime and yet transcendence.

This makeup artist says a bride refused to hire her unless she “changes her mind about being gay”

On Wednesday, June 12, Texas-based makeup artist Kristian Cardenas posted screenshots to her Facebook profile in which a bride-to-be is seen showing interest in her services, only to then ask if she’s gay and derogatorily explain why she won’t be hiring her.

This bride told a wedding guest to cover her tattoos and dye her hair a natural color

“Hey so with my wedding, I wanted to ask if you could please make sure your tattoos are covered & and could you maybe fix your hair up so it’s a natural [color]? We’ve put a lot of work into our theme and I’m sorry but your look clashes with it.”

5 things To know about Jane Richardson of NARS Cosmetics

A sneak peek into the life of NARS Cosmetic’s Global Artistry Director, Jane Richardson

Thabisile Mahlangu, founder of Reign Supreme Cosmetics, is making waves in the African cosmetic industry

Thabisile Mahlangu proudly showcases and promotes locally manufactured products.

Serena Williams shares the history of hair braiding in this sweet post

“Braiding started in Africa with the Himba people of Namibia,” she wrote. “We have been braiding her hair for centuries. In many African tribes, braided hairstyles were a unique way to identify each tribe. Because of the time it would take people would often take the time to socialize. It began with the elders braiding their children, then the children would watch and learn from them. The tradition of bonding was carried on for generations and quickly made its way across the world. I am honored to share this bonding experience with my own daughter and add another generation of historic traditions.”

The secret to building a beauty empire, according to The Lip Bar founder Melissa Butler

It’s been a crazy seven years because entrepreneurship is very tricky, but what people don’t talk about is the trials and tribulations and if you know what it means to be a leader. You can be a founder and a CEO all day, but it doesn’t make you a good leader.

10 beauty influencer accounts that you’ll learn something new from

The grown-up British beauty pros Harpers Bazaar UK follows on Instagram

Celebrity makeup artist Naoko Scintu shares her beauty secrets

From Cindy Crawford to Adriana Lima, Game of Thrones’ Sophie Turner to Florence Pugh, celebrity make-up artist Naoko Scintu has sent many a star down the red carpet looking absolutely flawless.

Chernobyl tourists are trying to turn a nuclear disaster zone into an instagram hotspot

On April 26, 1986, the Chernobyl disaster occurred when a nuclear reactor caused an uncontrolled nuclear chain reaction in Soviet Ukraine’s Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant. The event was catastrophic, but the immediate crisis management that could have prevented the spread of radiation, which contaminated the bodies of individuals in nearby areas and water supplies, ultimately causing cancer and death, was in its own way a smaller calamity.

Lauren Conrad reveals exactly how she applies her signature winged eyeliner

“To wing the liner out, angle your line towards the end of your eyebrow.” In other words, start your wing in the outer corner of your eye and aim as if you’re going to draw it to meet the outer point of your brow — but don’t actually draw it all the way up. “I tend to stop my wing where my crease ends.”

The Gen Z Celebrities who are trailblazing a new beauty standard

Now more than ever, Gen Z-ers are showcasing their unedited and natural selves on their main feeds, trailblazing a radical new standard for beauty that pushes to celebrate — rather than conceal — flaws and differences. Countless celebrities and influencers are catalyzing this shift, either by openly addressing toxic, outdated representations of beauty, getting vulnerable and “human” about their own mistakes and struggles, or drastically straying from the glossy Instagram aesthetic that many have described as “suffocating.”

Kylie Jenner’s body-moisturizing routine includes organic oils she bought on Amazon

“Almond oil or olive oil or jojoba oil,” she tells Khloe Kardashian of her preferred oils, admitting that, like so many of us, she used to mispronounce jojoba.

Getting ready with the American Ballet Theatre’s Erica Lall

“It’s crazy how fast we put a ballet together,” Erica tells Teen Vogue, noting that though the company is New York City–based, it tours nationally and internationally throughout the year. “We really start cramming for the spring season in April, and then we’re still rehearsing once it starts in May, because we have nine different productions in the eight weeks we perform.”

Rachel Brosnahan on why skipping makeup actually makes her feel more empowered

Rachel Brosnahan’s skin is like the eclipse: almost too beautiful, too otherworldly to behold, and can cause some serious damage (to, err, my own personal self-esteem) if you look too closely.

Pose star MJ Rodriguez on being a transgender actress of color and the power of makeup

We speak to the mother of the House of Evangelista about the importance of black and trans narratives, and how she finds power in living out loud.

Kate Moss’ secret facial remedy is already in your freezer

Inspired by Joan Crawford’s no-holds-barred approach to vanity portrayed in Mommie Dearest, the 45-year-old model has been known to submerge her face in a sink of icy water to counteract morning-after puffiness.

Shay Mitchell swears by this lip balm

“One thing I hate is having dry, chapped lips. I always bring my La Mer Lip Balm with me to keep my lips soft. I love the consistency and how it keeps my lips moisturized all day.”

Fans are praising Rihanna for leaving facial scars unedited in a Fenty campaign

Aweng opened up about the struggles she faced growing up with her scars. “People tell me I look like a jaguar or that I’m ‘exotic’,” she told Dazed in 2018. “Sometimes I just want to shout at everyone: ‘Look at me, I’m not just a scar, I’m a human.’ But I get it, it’s a curiosity. I know I’m different, I know my facial features are different, but to me that’s beauty.”

Phoebe Robinson Isn’t Afraid to Talk About Her Stomach Hair

Speaking of razors, Robinson is debuting her very first beauty partnership—a milestone in any performer’s life, to be sure. Together with Schick Intuition F.A.B., the comedian is starring in a new content series called “Shave Thoughts.”

Research and Technology

Use of platelet-rich plasma injection for rejuvenation of photoaged facial skin? via JAMA Dermatology

Use of platelet-rich plasma injection for rejuvenation of photoaged facial skin – Reply via JAMA Dermatology

The changing kinetics of advanced melanoma via JAMA Dermatology

Exploring mental disorders in patients with skin diseases via JAMA Dermatology

Psoriasis and risk of mental disorders via JAMA Dermatology

Factors associated with patient-reported importance of skin clearance among adults with psoriasis and atopic dermatitis via Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology

Laser treatment of epidermal nevi: A multicenter retrospective study with long-term follow-up via Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology

Placebo-responses in randomized controlled trials for systemic therapy in atopic dermatitis: a systematic review and meta-analysis via Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology

Therapeutic pearl: Dish-soap for complete tick detachment via Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology

Increased interest in sunless tanning versus tanning beds in the United States, a Google trends analysis via Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology

Hangnail – A simple solution to a common problem via Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology

Harnessing the power of regenerative therapy for vitiligo and alopecia areata via Journal of Investigative Dermatology

miR-146a inhibits biofilm-derived Cutibacterium acnes induced inflammatory reactions in human keratinocytes via Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Eczema apps conformance with clinical guidelines: A systematic assessment of functions, tools and content. via British Journal of Dermatology

Fractional CO2 laser treatment for post-surgical lip scars in cleft lip and palate patients via Lasers in Medical Science

Gelatin-based formulations for dermal application via European Polymer Journal

Photodynamic therapy for severe facial acne vulgaris with 5% 5‐aminolevulinic acid vs 10% 5‐aminolevulinic acid: A split‐face randomized controlled study via Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Efficacy of stem cell-conditioned medium vs platelet-rich plasma as an adjuvant to post-ablative fractional CO2 laser resurfacing for atrophic post-acne scars: A split-face clinical trial via Journal of Dermatological Treatment

Equol’s efficacy is greater than astaxanthin for antioxidants, extracellular matrix integrity & breakdown, growth factors and inflammatory biomarkers via human skin gene expression analysis via Journal of Functional Foods

Contribution of antimicrobials to the development of allergic disease. via Current Opinion in Immunology

Depression and psychological distress in US adults with atopic dermatitis via Annals of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology

Topical probiotics: the unknowns behind their rising popularity via Dermatology Online Journal

Comparison of quality of life and illness perception among patients with acne, eczema, and psoriasis via Dermatology Online Journal

Enthalpy and entropy compensation in the melting of human hair via International Journal of Trichology

Expert consensus on the management of androgenetic alopecia in India via International Journal of Trichology

Injectable-platelet-rich fibrin-smart blood with stem cells for the treatment of alopecia: A report of three patients via International Journal of Trichology

RF – Epidermal Growth Factor Receptor Inhibitors and Skin Toxicity: The Search for a Management Protocol via Actas Dermo-Sifiliograficas

Radial shockwave therapy for male erectile rejuvenation in a dermatology and/or medical aesthetic practice via Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

The influence of age, gender and race/ethnicity on the composition of the human axillary microbiome via International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Chemical peels: Deep, medium, and light via Facial Plastic Surgery

Superficial dermal fillers with hyaluronic acid via Facial Plastic Surgery

Overview of deep dermal fillers via Facial Plastic Surgery

Artificial intelligence in teledermatology via Current Dermatology Reports

Rhamnus prinoides (gesho): A source of diverse anti-biofilm activity via Journal of Ethnopharmacology

Plasma cell gingivitis due to cosmetics related iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (IPBC) allergy in a teenage female patient masking as desquamative gingivitis via Oral Surgery, Oral Medicine, Oral Pathology and Oral Radiology

Comparison of intralesional triamcinolone acetonide, Botulinum toxin Type A, and their combination for the treatment of keloid lesions via Journal of Dermatological Treatment

Disease-specific primed human adult stem cells effectively ameliorate experimental atopic dermatitis in mice via Theranostics

Association between lactic acid sting test scores, self‐assessed sensitive skin score sand biophysical properties in Chinese females via International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Visual loss from dermal fillers via Dermatology and Therapy

A real-world, non-interventional Indian study evaluating intensive plant-based butter moisturizing cream in psoriasis via Dermatology and Therapy

Formulation and artificial sebum effects on the percutaneous absorption of zinc pyrithione through excised human skin via Skin Pharmacology and Physiology

Influence of exposure to summer environments on skin properties via Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology

The many faces of rosacea: liberal diagnostic criteria have ramifications on disease prevalence and accuracy via Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology

Acupuncture treatment for symptom management in atopic dermatitis: A study protocol for a randomized, participant- and assessor-blind, sham-controlled trial via Evidence-based Complementary and Alternative Medicine

Keloid treatment: what about adjuvant radiotherapy? via Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Effects of a cream containing 5% hyaluronic acid mixed with a bacterial-wall-derived glycoprotein, glycyrretinic acid, piroctone olamine and climbazole on signs, symptoms and skin bacterial microbiota in subjects with seborrheic dermatitis of the face via Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Protective effects of glycerol and xylitol in keratinocytes exposed to hyperosmotic stress via Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Impact of olive oil and honey on healing of diabetic foot: a randomized controlled trial via Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Clinical evidence on the efficacy and tolerability of a topical medical device containing benzoylperoxide 4%, retinol 0.5%, mandelic acid 1% and lactobionic acid 1% in the treatment of mild facial acne: an open label pilot study via Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Antibiotics for acne vulgaris: using Instagram to seek insight into the patient perspective via Journal of Dermatological Treatment

Chemical peeling in dermatology via Der Hautarzt

Actinic cheilitis: Analysis of clinical subtypes, risk factors and associated signs of actinic damage via Acta Dermato-Venereologica

Extreme incidence of skin cancer in kidney and liver transplant recipients living with high sun exposure via Acta Dermato-Venereologica

Next generation sequencing identifies the keratinocyte-specific miRNA signature of psoriasis via Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Incorporation of 3D stereophotogrammetry as a reliable method for assessing scar volume in standard clinical practice via Burns

Cutaneous effects of antihypertensive drugs via Giornale Italiano di Dermatologia e Venereologia

Melanoma diagnosis: traumatic impact of the event on the patient via Giornale Italiano di Dermatologia e Venereologia

“Healthy Hands”. A pilot study for the prevention of chronic hand eczema in healthcare workers of an Italian University Hospital via Giornale Italiano di Dermatologia e Venereologia

The efficacy and safety of BM-PHA for the correction of nasolabial folds: a multicenter, randomized, double-blind, split-face clinical trial via Journal of Dermatological Treatment

Nanostructured supramolecular hydrogels: Towards the topical treatment of Psoriasis and other skin diseases via Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerface

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]]> 3392 Paperview: Sunscreen application to the face persists beyond 2 hours in indoor workers https://www.kindofstephen.com/sunscreen-office-indoors/ Wed, 24 Oct 2018 12:50:54 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3109 What happens to your sunscreen throughout a work day? I often get this question, especially from people who work inside for most of the day. A group of researchers at Mahidol University in Thailand did an experiment that may provide us with some guidance. The researchers took 20 people (15 women) with mostly skin phototype […]

"Paperview: Sunscreen application to the face persists beyond 2 hours in indoor workers" on KindofStephen.

]]> What happens to your sunscreen throughout a work day? I often get this question, especially from people who work inside for most of the day. A group of researchers at Mahidol University in Thailand did an experiment that may provide us with some guidance.

The researchers took 20 people (15 women) with mostly skin phototype III and up. Skin phototype III means that they tan, but sometimes get mild burns.

The participants were asked to apply 1 gram of sunscreen to their face. The sunscreen was mixed with a blue fluorescent dye that would glow under UV light. This glow allowed the researchers to see the sunscreen on the skin and note changes in its brightness throughout the day.

The people only wore the sunscreen and were asked not to reapply. They weren’t allowed to use makeup or other skincare. They were also allowed up to 1 hour outside. The temperature outside was between 23 and 35 degrees Celsius throughout the day and described as humid. The indoor condition was inside the air conditioned Siriraj Hospital.

Every 2 hours, the researchers took a photo of the people and measured the glow of the sunscreen under a UV light. They looked at the cheeks, forehead, nose, moustache area, and the chin. They used a Visia device to help make sure the photos were consistent.

Sunscreen brightness reduction every 2 hours by percent. The bars indicate the range in measurement values.

The researchers found that the fluorescent glow on the people’s faces decreased the most in the first 2 hours after applying the sunscreen. On average the areas of the face were 16.3% less bright.

Between 2 hours and 4 hours after application, the brightness decreased by a further 7.4 percentage points on average. Between 4 hours and 8 hours, there was an average 4.5 percentage point decrease in brightness.

At the end of the day, there was about a 30% decrease in brightness on average compared to just after applying the sunscreen.

A 30% decrease in brightness in this experiment doesn’t necessarily mean a 30% decrease in sunscreen on the skin. There are ways to model this more accurately, but they did not have the tools in this experiment.

So what does this mean for you? At the end of the day, you’ll still have to use your best judgement.

If you pigment easily, are very concerned about photoaging, or have a family history of skin cancer – I think the best recommendation is to be on the safe side and reapply at least once around 2 hours.

If don’t care that much, consider the opposite, about 70% of the glow from the sunscreen still remained after 8 hours.

In either case, that first application is important. I’d recommend choosing a sunscreen with a high SPF and UVA protection and aiming for a 2 mg/cm² layer. An easy way to make it more likely you’ve applied that amount is to apply your sunscreen in two layers.

Source: Rungananchai, C., Silpa-archa, N., Wongpraparut, C., Suiwongsa, B., Sangveraphunsiri, V., & Manuskiatti, W. (2018). Sunscreen Application to the Face Persists Beyond 2 Hours in Indoor Workers: An Open Label Trial. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 1–14. doi: 10.1080/09546634.2018.1530440

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]]> 3109 Paperview: Evaluation of the protection of a broad-spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen against DNA damage https://www.kindofstephen.com/paperview-evaluation-of-the-protection-of-a-broad-spectrum-spf50-sunscreen-against-dna-damage/ Wed, 22 Aug 2018 17:00:36 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3000 Cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) are a form of DNA damage that is caused by UV exposure. CPDs interfere with base pairing during DNA replication – which can lead to mutations and cancer. UVB radiation is directly absorbed by DNA. The energy causes changes in the bonding of pyrimidine structures found in DNA leading to CPDs […]

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]]> Cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) are a form of DNA damage that is caused by UV exposure. CPDs interfere with base pairing during DNA replication – which can lead to mutations and cancer.

UVB radiation is directly absorbed by DNA. The energy causes changes in the bonding of pyrimidine structures found in DNA leading to CPDs and pyrimidine-pyrimidone (6-4) photoproducts.

UVA on the other hand is poorly absorbed by DNA, but was also found to cause CPD formation in human skin. CPDs were found to remain longer in the skin when there was UVA exposure, leading to speculation that UVA may also suppress a repair mechanism.

Our cells do have DNA repair capabilities, where damaged DNA is excised and replaced – but these processes can be overwhelmed by an accumulation of damage.

Experiments have measured the amount of CPD formation in human skin when exposed to UVB. One study found that CPDs were formed even when there was no visible sunburn (0.5 sunburn dose). They also found CPDs in both the epidermis and dermis and these levels were elevated for about 10 days as the skin sloughed off.

These two images from the paper show (A) skin that was not exposed to UVB and (B) skin that was exposed to UVB. The brown staining of the cells indicates presence of CPDs.

The amount of CPDs found in both the epidermis and dermis increased as UVB exposure increased.

A recent experiment performed by Pierre Fabre (manufacturers of Avène) looked at the effect sunscreen had on the  formation of CPDs in human skin after UV exposure.

14 volunteers applied a sunscreen to their forearm and were exposed to UVB and UVA on skin protected by the sunscreen and also on unprotected skin. The area covered in sunscreen received 15 times the dose of UV to cause sunburn, whereas the unprotected skin received 2 times the dose.

After this exposure, their skin was blistered by vacuum and the contents of the blister were examined for CPDs using two different methods: immunostaining and spectrometry (HPLC-MS).

They found that the unprotected skin after exposure to UV had an elevated ratio of CPDs to normal DNA bases (90 CPD to 106 DNA bases). In comparison, the skin protected with the sunscreen had an amount of CPDs similar to unexposed skin and statistically significantly less than the unprotected skin (P < 0.001) – even though the area received more UV exposure. The CPD to normal DNA base ratio was not reported for the sunscreen protected and unexposed skin.

The sunscreen was not named, but it is SPF 50+, broad spectrum, and contained; Tinosorb M and S, Iscotrizinol, Avobenzone, and the antioxidant bis-ethylhexyl-hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate.

Preventing the formation of CPDs from reducing UV exposure is the most well-researched option, but there are other newer methods that are emerging – some of which are already available on the market.

Photolyase is a DNA repair enzyme that can be activated by the absorption of a photon and transfer an electron to the CPD, this can separate the CPD back into two normal pyrimidine bases – with the right timing. In humans, the photolyase enzyme no longer works, but there is some evidence that topical application of photolyase may reduce the formation of CPDs. An experiment where photolyase encapsulated in liposomes combined with light exposure was applied to human skin reduced the formation of CPDs by 40%-45% after exposure to UVB.

You can watch a lecture given by Aziz Sanzar about photolyase and DNA repair below. He won the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 2015 for his work along with his colleagues Tomas Lindahl and Paul Modrich.

S.K. Katiyar, M.S. Matsui, H. Mukhtar, Kinetics of UV light–induced cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers in human skin in vivo: An immunohistochemical analysis of both epidermis and dermis, Photochemistry and Photobiology (2002), DOI: 10.1562/0031-8655(2000)0720788KOULIC2.0.CO2
J. Gwendal, T. Douki, J. Le Digabel, et al, Evaluation of the protection of a broad-spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen against DNA damage, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2018), DOI: 10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.570

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]]> 3000 Should you avoid sunscreens with Avobenzone? https://www.kindofstephen.com/should-you-avoid-sunscreens-with-avobenzone/ Thu, 10 May 2018 12:45:16 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=2642 I’ve received quite a few questions about the organic sunscreen chemical Avobenzone over the years and I wanted to shed some light on one of the most common concerns – its photodegradation in UV. These concerns are usually raised by websites that say things like, “Avobenzone degrades in the sun, resulting in the release of free […]

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]]> I’ve received quite a few questions about the organic sunscreen chemical Avobenzone over the years and I wanted to shed some light on one of the most common concerns – its photodegradation in UV. These concerns are usually raised by websites that say things like, “Avobenzone degrades in the sun, resulting in the release of free radicals that may actually increase the risk for cancer.”

What these quotes often leave out is the context, which is important in understanding why Avobenzone is so commonly used in sunscreens and why it is effective.

Avobenzone or butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane is an organic sunscreen that absorbs in the UVA region and has global approval. Among the sunscreen chemicals available in the US it is the strongest and most effective UVA absorber. Avobenzone exists in two chemical forms when in solution, the enol form and the diketo (or keto) form.

When exposed to UV light some Avobenzone in the enol form can be changed into the keto form – however this is slowly reversed once Avobenzone is removed from UV light.

In its keto form Avobenzone is susceptible to photodegradation from UV light. The energy from UV light causes structural changes in the Avobenzone that can lead to breakdown products. In many cases, those breakdown products no longer effectively absorb UVA and UVB (some of them will absorb UVC). Some of these breakdown products are also thought to be irritants. The other concern is that some singlet oxygen can also be formed – a reactive oxygen species which can damage DNA and cells.

The above only relates to Avobenzone on its own though, the material that Avobenzone is dissolved into and other chemicals in the formula can change how easily Avobenzone photodegrades. Other modifications like encapsulating Avobenzone have also been tested, though the benefit is often reduced contact between Avobenzone and the skin – not photostability.

Photostabilizers generally work by absorbing energy from the Avobenzone before it becomes unstable and breaks and down. Effective photostabilizers will then be able to take this energy and dissipate it in safer forms, most often heat.

A company that produces Avobenzone, DSM Nutritional Products, performed a study testing different photostabilizers and their effect on Avobenzone’s phostability. The most commonly used and known photostabilizer of Avobenzone is the organic sunscreen chemical Octocrylene, but there are other photostabilizers that don’t act as sunscreens such as Polyester-8 and Polysilicone-15.

To perform the test, 4% Avobenzone and different photostabilizers were dissolved into a mixture of 70% ethanol, 15% caprylic/capric triglyceride, and 15% C12-15 alkyl benzoate. The solutions were placed on glass slides at a density of 2 mg/cm2 then exposed to 25 MED (Minimal Erythemal Dose, 1 MED defined by the US FDA as 200 Joules/Meter2) units of UV light. After exposure, the amount of Avobenzone remaining was determined.

What the researchers found was that the combination of 4% Avobenzone and 3-5% Octocrylene maintained 90% of the Avobenzone after 25 MEDs of UV light. Based on this, they tested different combinations of Octocrylene and other photostabilizers to see how well they stabilized Avobenzone.

They found that 3.6% Octocrylene with 4% Bis Ethylhexyloxyphenyl Methoxyphenol Triazine or 4% 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor were able to completely stabilize the Avobenzone after 25 MED of UV.

There’s currently no global standard on photostability, different regions have their own standards. In the US as part of the Broad Spectrum test, sunscreens are pre-irradiated with 4 MED before testing.

Just like how some chemicals can increase the photostability of Avobenzone, others like Octinoxate (Octyl Methoxycinnamate) are known to speed up the photodegradation of Avobenzone – but this effect can be mitigated with formulations.. This paper is often misquoted to include Oxybenzone (2-Hydroxy-4-Methoxybenzophenone), often mischaracterized as not photostable, as a chemical that increases the photodegradation of Avobenzone, but it was included as an internal standard to allow comparison between samples – as it did not photodegrade in the experiment.

What matters when it comes to the protection offered by a sunscreen are the values and ratings determined from standardized tests like SPF, PPD, Broad Spectrum, etc and not the appearance of an ingredient on the INCI.

Basing assumptions on INCI is dangerous, as the only way to truly know is to test the products. An experiment on 6 different commercial sunscreens on their photostability highlights this. 4/6 of the organic sunscreens tested exhibited a decrease in photoprotection after UV exposure. Of the two photostable organic sunscreens one contained a combination of Avobenzone and 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor and the other Octocrylene, Avobenzone, Mexoryl SX, and Titanium Dioxide. The one inorganic sunscreen tested was shown to be photostable after UV exposure.

Keep in mind, this study tested commercial sunscreens available in 2006, where photostability was a relatively newer concern for sunscreens and standards had not yet been defined. It was around this time that Neutrogena began marketing its Helioplex patent, a photostable combination of Avobenzone, Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate, and Oxybenzone. The Helioplex US patent was granted in 2002 and other patents for increasing photostability of Avobenzone are present as early as 1999, when the US FDA finalized the use of Avobenzone in sunscreens.

While we still do not have a global standard for photostability, the options for and knowledge to stabilize sunscreens has grown considerably. It also still very important to reapply your sunscreen throughout UV exposure, this compensates for any protection lost through photodegradation as well as physical changes in the film of sunscreen on the skin.

Source: C. Mendrok-Edinger, K. Smith, A Janssen, J. Vollhardt. The Quest for Avobenzone Stabilizers and Sunscreen Photostability, Cosmetics and Toiletries, http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/suncare/premium-the-quest-for-avobenzone-stabilizers-and-sunscreen-photostability-214405251.html

Edited on March 3rd, 2022 to include new research regarding the use of avobenzone and octinoxate together.

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]]> 2642 Comparison of skin hydration in combination and single use of common moisturizers (cream, toner, and spray water) https://www.kindofstephen.com/comparison-of-skin-hydration-in-combination-and-single-use-of-common-moisturizers-cream-toner-and-spray-water/ Sat, 17 Mar 2018 22:28:15 +0000 http://kindofstephen.com/?p=2464 What’s the best way to organize your skincare routine? Should we layer from thickest to thinnest? Where does sunscreen go? I’ve been asked this a lot and I don’t have the answer. Most research on skincare application is done with just one product. Sunscreens are always tested on clean skin with no other products. If […]

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]]> What’s the best way to organize your skincare routine? Should we layer from thickest to thinnest? Where does sunscreen go?

I’ve been asked this a lot and I don’t have the answer. Most research on skincare application is done with just one product. Sunscreens are always tested on clean skin with no other products. If you want to get as close to the protection on the label, it’s best to recreate the conditions it was tested on, which means applying it on clean skin and not following it with anything else. The same applies for most cosmetic products as well.

That’s not realistic for everyone and many of us enjoy using multiple products. But the reality with a lot of the advice found online and from experts is that it’s just advice and often isn’t based on evidence – especially scientific evidence.

A group of Chinese researchers performed an experiment looking at the effect of different combinations of three products (moisturizer, toner, and mineral water sprays) and different application routines on skin moisture. Keep in mind that the only endpoint measured was stratum corneum moisture measured by the Corneometer, a capacitance measuring tool often used in cosmetic research. This experiment doesn’t provide any insight beyond skin moisture, like skin penetration of an active affected by combination or routine, for example.

20 female volunteers participated in this experiment. Eight 3-by-3 cm squares were drawn on the legs and forearms of each volunteer and were randomized to receive eight different routines and combinations – including a square with no product applied, acting as a control. The baseline moisture levels of the squares were measured and categorized into ‘normal’ or ‘dry’ by a limit of 35 a.u. (a measurement unit used by the Corneometer).

The 8 different combinations and routines are as follows;

Toner and Toner reapplied every 2 hours (T-T)
Cream then Toner together (C+T)
Toner only (T)
Cream only (C)
Cream then Water reapplied every 2 hours (C-S)
Untreated (Control)
Cream and Toner reapplied every 2 hours (C-T)
Toner then Cream together (T+C)

Stratum corneum moisture levels were measured every 2 hours, including a baseline, and participants were kept in a 22 °C room with a 50% humidity.

The products included in the test were a Winona brand Cream with the ingredients:

Aqua, Glycerol, Butyrospermum Parkii Oil, Dimethicone, Glycereth-26, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Pentylene Glycol, Hexyldecanol, Sucrose Polystearate, Diethylhexyl Cyclohexane, Petroleum Jelly, Tocopheryl Acetate, Prinsepia Utilis Royle Oil, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Beta Glucans, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cetylhydroxyproline Palmitamide, Alpha Bisabolol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Acrylamide, Acrylamide/ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/c10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tween 20, Xanthan Gum, Disodium Edta, Polybutene, Polyisobutene, Butyl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

a Winona brand Toner with the ingredients:

Aqua, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerol, Glycereth-26, Trimethylpentanediol/adipic Acid/glycerin Crosspolymer,
Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Beta Glucan, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose

and Avene Thermal Spring Water was used as the Mineral Water Spray.

While applying any form of skincare product created an increase in skin moisture in dry and normal skin, some combinations were significantly more effective than others.

Table VI is mislabeled and is the data for Dry Skin

Because the normal or dry categories were determined by Corneometer, there’s no way to self-categorize unless you have a Corneometer handy.

From this experiment, the increase in moisture from Cream then Toner, or Toner then Cream, or Cream only were about the same. This implies that the total amount of cream and toner applied is more important than the order of application. As well, this also implies that the increase in moisture is mostly from the cream and not the toner.

The researchers speculate that the increase in moisture reaches a peak depending on factors like the environment which slowly declines after application. Toner on its own did increase moisture of the skin, but even when combined with cream never surpassed the moisture gained from cream alone.

In terms of supplementation of Cream with Water or Toner, the greatest increase in moisture was achieved with application of a Cream then Toner every 2 hours. Supplementation of Water after Cream application reduced skin moisture with each application. Toner with additional Toner supplementation increased skin moisture over time, but was still less than Cream and Toner.

I think reading descriptions of the effects is likely a bit confusing, so I encourage you to use the interactive charts to compare different applications.

Also keep in mind that this experiment used three specific products and concentration of ingredients will vary between products. So it’s best to use this information as a guideline, but not a rule.

Li Yuanxi, Wei Hua, Lidan Xiong, Li Li, Comparison of Skin Hydration in Combination and Single Use of Common Moisturizers (Cream, Toner, and Spray Water), Journal of Cosmetic Science (2016), PMID: 29394018

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